The use of plants have become a important trend in cosmetic market, with a crescent number of patent applications. Despite various herbal-based ingredients have been described in scientific literature, most of them are restricted to patent databases. In this work we analyze the innovative use of plants and its derivatives in cosmetic technologies, based on patent analysis. The investigation was conducted using Derwent World Patents Index (Thomson Reuters Scientific, USA) from 1995 to 2015. The search was carried out to evaluate the number of patent deposits, the patent depositors profiles, the countries with most patent applications, the International Patent Classification (IPC) and the main plant families using in cosmetics. Patent analysis revealed an increase number of applications involving cosmetic containing plants components, with a higher number of deposits related to anti-ageing and whitening skin treatment. Fabaceae, Asteraceae, Rosaceae, Lamiaceae, Poaceae, Rutaceae, Lilliacae and Apiaceae were the key plant families used in cosmetic formulations for skin care treatment. Comparison between scientific and technological data pointed out divergences between patents deposits and aid-based scientific reports. The use of patent analysis in combination with scientific data opens up wider aspects of knowledge and enables a better rationalization of innovative works.

FUNDAMENTOS: Os cosméticos hidratantes melhoram a pele, aproximando-a de suas condições ideais, pois aumentam a quantidade de água no estrato córneo. As vitaminas A e E, bem como as ceramidas, são substâncias ativas que vêm sendo muito empregadas em hidratantes, os quais constituem uma das mais importantes classes de produtos cosméticos e de higiene corporal. OBJETIVO: - O objetivo deste trabalho foi avaliar o efeito no pH cutâneo da pele humana de uma emulsão O/A (constituída de base auto-emulsionante não iônica) acrescida, ou não, de vitamina A palmitato ou vitamina E acetato ou ceramida III, por metodologia não invasiva MÉTODOS:O estudo foi realizado em 40 mulheres com idade entre 30 e 45 anos, empregando-se o equipamento Skin Phmeter PH 900 PC. As medidas foram efetuadas no antebraço das voluntárias nos tempos de sete e 30 dias após auto-aplicação diária (duas vezes ao dia), dos produtos envolvidos no estudo RESULTADOS E CONCLUSÃO: A presença das vitaminas A ou E, ou da ceramida não alterou de maneira significativa o pH da pele, o que mostra que as formulações estudadas são adequadas para o uso cosmético.

BACKGROUND: Moisturizers are believed to improve the skin's condition by increasing the water content of the stratum corneum. Vitamins A and E and ceramides have been widely used in cosmetic moisturizing products, and these are one of the most important cosmetic and body care products. OBJECTIVE: The aim of this research was to evaluate the effects on the pH of human skin of an O/W emulsion (non ionic self-emulsifying base) with and without vitamin A palmitate, or vitamin E acetate, or ceramide III, using a non-invasive method. METHOD: The investigations were carried out on a group of 40 healthy female test subjects aged between 30 and 45 years old, using the Skin pH meter PH 900 PC. The measurements were performed on the forearm of volunteers at 7 and 30 days after daily use (twice a day) of the products used in the study. RESULTS AND CONCLUSION: The presence of vitamins A or E or ceramide III did not change the pH of the skin, consequently the formulations studied are suitable for cosmetic usage.